DIY Craftsman Style Door Casing Part 2
After about a month, it was time to get back at making more DIY craftsman style door casings for the basement living room. As with anything I do in the basement, practice makes perfect, so I am very optimistic I am going to knock it out of the park with my newest version. I want these to be a little more grandiose than the bedroom casings, hopefully bringing your eyes to my DIY faux coffered ceiling and making the ceiling appear higher than it really is. I looked at the door casings on our main level for ideas. Ultimately I used all of the same materials but added a 1x3x8 and a cove molding. (You will not need 8′ of anything except the 1×4’s, there will enough extra trim to make another)
Materials Needed for DIY Craftsman Style Door Casing
- One 1x2x8′ board
- One 1x3x8′ board
- Two 1x4x8′ boards
- One 1x6x8′ board
- One 8′ drip cap molding
- One 8′ cove molding
With this door I used the same process as with the bedroom casings for measuring the width of the door by nailing the 1×4’s to the outside casing first then measure from the full width rather than the door opening. With those hung level it’s easier to verify that the width of your header is staying on point.
Measure the distance from your flooring all the way to the 1/8″ reveal mark at the top of the header, then subtract about an 1/8″ off that length when make your cuts for some wiggle room between your flooring and casing. (The reveal line is often a pre-routed line 1/8″ all the way around the door jamb) You will use these 1×4’s for the sides. Once the 1×4’s are affixed with nails/staples I started making cuts to the rest of the wood for the header, cutting all of the 1x’s the same width except for the leftover 1×4 scraps, I cut those into two small pieces 5 ½” in length so I could place them onto the 1×6 vertically.
When cutting the cove and drip molding I used the skills I learned while hanging the chair rail in my master bath. Making outside angle miter cuts will give me the wrap around finished look I am going for. Once you have made all of the necessary cuts lay the 1×2 flat and glue the cove molding to the outside edge, once it is somewhat secure but not set, glue the smaller pieces to each end matching up the outside angles. I used the proper Liquid Nails this time to affix the trim to the 1×2. Once dry, shoot an 18 gauge nail through the cove molding into the 1×2 every 5-6″ to keep secure. Repeat that process with your drip molding.
Now it’s time to assemble
To finish these, putty holes with nail filler of your choice. Attach to wall with 16 gauge pneumatic nail gun and 2″ finishing nails. Caulk around each side casing and between the door jamb. Add one final coat of paint, step back and enjoy!
Thanks for stopping by!
Part 3 includes painting our oil based paint white doors black, as well as changing all the mismatched hardware/hinges and a few extra tips!